THIS CLIMB IS FULL & CANNOT TAKE ANY MORE ALTERNATES
Looking for an introduction to the North Cascades? Here is a wonderful twofer opportunity. Eldorado Peak is a classic with a steep approach, glacier crossing, a magnificent high camp with great views of surrounding peaks like Forbidden, and the amazing knife edge finish to the summit. Eldo is the full package of N Cascades climbing while not being overly technical. Black Peak is another classic that is at the far east end of the park. It offers amazing views of the cascades, a gorgeous camp site at Wing Lake, and some fun 3rd/4th class scrambling with a bit of exposure at the end. A nice finish to great run of climbing!
See below for a lot more info... Please do not reach out until you've reviewed the info below AND both prospectuses (links in text below). If we are unfamiliar with you then please include some info about yourself including fitness, training, climbs, you've done, any references from climb leaders, assistants, pod leaders, etc.
Eldorado Peak - Black Peak Twofer Overview
Leaders: Mike Penningtong/Chris Canfield
DATES: Aug 7-10, 2024
RATING: S1/R1
TEAM SIZE: Max 12
TEAM SELECTION: Open application period of one week. A team will be selected on Tue May 7th. Any remaining open spots will be filled on first come, first serve basis. Priority will be given to those interested in both climbs. If you have an interest in JUST Eldorado, we can add those folks after the 7th. We are not going to open spots for JUST Black Peak as it creates logistical issues.
CONTINGENCY:
We already have permits for Eldorado. Black Peak does not require one. If weather becomes an issue during that 4 day stretch, we will prioritize Eldorado. We should be able to get permits for different days if needed.
Skills Needed:
Eldorado - Ice ax, crampons, roped team travel
Black Peak - scrambling 3rd class terrain with a bit of 4th class without a rope
GENERAL PLAN:
Aug 7 (Wed) - Approach to Eldorado high camp
Aug 8 (Thur) - Summit Eldorado and descend back to cars; camp in Marblemount
Aug 9 (Fri) - Drive to TH for Black Peak and hike to camp
Aug 10 (Sat) - Summit Black Peak and hike back to cars
PROSPECTUS:
Please review the prospectus for each climb fully. Don’t hesitate to ask questions.
Eldorado Peak Prospectus
Black Peak Prospectus
TRAVEL:
Getting There:
We need everyone to be at the Marblemount Ranger Station by 10am on Wed. Given the roughly 6 hrs drive and high potential of getting caught in Seattle rush hour, it is HIGHLY suggested that you consider driving up Tue evening and hoteling or camping somewhere closer that allows you to beat rush hour traffic or puts you already north of Seattle. If you are leaving from Salem on Wed morning, we highly recommend 3am. If you aren’t on time, we’ll have to leave without you. Chris and I are most likely going to hotel north of Seattle Tue eve and then just have a short easy drive Wed morning without headaches.
Between Climbs:
We will camp one night at the Alpine RV Park in Marblemount. They have showers, flush toilets, and WiFi. They will also be close access to restaurants and coffee. Did I mention coffee!!! Folks can choose to not stay here if they want. Likely be $20 or less per person.
After the Climbs:
We should be done by late afternoon on Sat. This should give you a chance to drive home to Salem by midnight or so depending on how much you stop. People can also choose to stay another night somewhere on their own. Finding accommodations may be tough unless reserved.